Travelogue 1116 – 29 December
The Questions
Hey ho, the wind and the rain. It's been a Shakespearean Christmas season, even the Netherlands feeling the stress of too much water. River levels in the east reached fourteen metres above NAP. NAP means the Normal Amsterdam Level, which is the standard in the Netherlands, a measure just below sea level.
I’ve been spending vacation time working on a research paper about assessment. This is for professional development. I’m analysing an exam given last year in a course that I supervise. That means going over the exam again and again, examining the questions that make it up. I find weak questions, and I make recommendations for improvement.
At night, the rain strikes up a steady rhythm. It falls on the roof and patters against the windows. The drops become so many questions falling on me from the sky.
I’ve also been using vacation time to catch up on dental work. I sit in the chair as they work in my mouth, staring into the bright light over the dentist’s shoulder, asking myself questions. “What am I doing here?” is a prominent one. I reflect, not for the first time, that what distinguishes the human from the animal is the ability to submit oneself to pain, to appoint a time when another human will inflict pain, to contentedly submit to the administration of pain, motivated only by an abstract idea of health. I feel some amazement every time I ease myself into that oversized chair.
Seeing doctors and dentists more often than friends does something to your head. You begin to think a lot about mortality. There was a time I thought questions came with answers. The two were complements, like protons and electrons: free in space to match when the time was right. Now it looks like a universe of protons. They fall from the sky, upsetting the NAP and lulling us finally to sleep.
Friday, December 29, 2023
Tuesday, December 19, 2023
Pooling
The water that lured Narcissus didn’t necessarily run deep, but it was still, still as a mirror. It captured him as surely as a fly in honey, trapped him in its pool of pure mood. Narcissus was the son of a god, and he was a beautiful man. He had many admirers, including the timid mountain nymph Echo, who pined away for him until she was nothing but sound. Nothing would save him from himself, or from the terrifying power of water. Prophecy warned that he should avoid his reflection, and yet the picture of oneself is too seductive – count the people you pass in one day checking themselves out in their phones. And - let’s be fair - avoiding all water is rather difficult. The mood mirror catches us all eventually.
The subject of an article I read recently in the Guardian was the shift in global power relationships around the world. It was a legitimately interesting topic, the shift away from binary Cold-War models and toward a multipolar order in which smaller powers mix and match their alignments, meaning economic alignments with China and military agreements with America, for example. Biden had recently met with Xi in San Francisco, as the author mentioned in the introduction. But none of this was the lead. The pretext for the article was a poll.
Among the findings in this European Council on Foreign Relations and Oxford University project were that big chunks of “those we asked” in a selection of countries (1) believed the U.S. was at war with Russia; (2) believed Russia would win its war against Ukraine; (3) thought the U.S. would go to war with China over Taiwan in the near future; (4) believed the E.U. would fall apart. Most of “those we asked” would prefer to live in Europe or the U.S. but would rather trade with China. And so on. (Here is a nice essay about the role polls play in news cycles.)
This sort of poll, so ubiquitous now, begins to sound comical to me. I picture a Kimmel sketch in which people on the street outside his studio are peppered with random questions. Ask people questions, they answer. No matter how distant the topic; no matter how little they cared a moment before; no matter how fantastical the topic, they will manufacture an opinion. A poll is more Rorschach test than exercise in thought, but the very seriousness with which polls are treated emboldens people to confuse impulse and reason. Democracy stands at risk of devolving into opinion polls, which are at best, let’s admit it, nothing more than barometers of fleeting emotion.
We read polls the way Narcissus read the waters. What matters is our glorious selves. Polls that support our assumptions make us glow with affirmation; polls that counter our assumptions make us glow with indignation. The latter is more addictive than the former. In either case, we have learned nothing, accomplished nothing, exercised no critical-thinking or problem-solving skills.
Wednesday, December 13, 2023
Coolhaven
Our routine this autumn has been to take the Metro to school, two stops to Coolhaven Station. We cross the bridge, and then we descend to the waterside. It’s not the most direct way, but I find walking along the water peaceful.
The Coolhaven, or Cool Harbour (‘Cool’ pronounced like ‘coal’), was dug about a hundred years ago. It appears as nothing more special than a widening of the River Schie before that river turns south and empties into the Nieuwe Maas. The stretch of open water separates Delfshaven from what once were the furthest western stretches of Rotterdam, and it’s peaceful because there isn’t much traffic anymore. There’s nothing particularly scenic; it’s lined along most of its banks by calm residential areas. But this place has been so central in the geography of my life in this town, its meaning enhances its beauty. It’s like Loring Park in Minneapolis, a place I saw almost every day for years.
I walk the same way after dropping the girls. It’s only been ten minutes, but the light has changed. On the way to school, we walk under dawn’s first light. The night has not yet been overcome. By the time I’m walking back toward the Metro Station, the dawning day has become ascendant, and the sky is more blue than black, more day than night. The waters are calm, and I drink in the sight of them, absorbing quiet contentment.
They say water is a symbol of mood. I accept the gift of stillness from the Coolhaven this morning, this whisper of comfort during a time of year that feels chaotic.
Sunday, December 03, 2023
Travelogue 1113 – 3 December
Be Real
“Why are younger voters flocking to the far right?” worries the Guardian.
I thought I had better check Instagram for an answer. There, a young lady told me with a blissful smile that she had been sent to this earth to experience ‘every human emotion’. Odd that human emotions comprise such an exotic menu for all the disembodied souls. Is it that much of a privilege, given the scope of this universe? After the hormonal cascade of emotions in adolescence, what is left but dread and anxiety? But there you have it: those tears at the high school prom are a real draw.
It would seem that popular scifi mythology has seeped into general culture. We are now encouraged to believe, from the cold lips of Spock and other alien boosters, that we are a savage but a special species, so violent but so romantic. Visiting extra-terrestrials marvel that one human stops to drop a coin in the cap of another human … who was abandoned by the rest and sleeps on the pavement; are astonished by the little girl who feeds the baby birds left motherless … by her big brother and his slingshot.
I thought I had better check the hard news, instead. Headline: disgraced former congressman George Santos is talking to the press. He is quite indignant about the way he was treated. And now Santos, this man who conned an Amish man out of his puppies and who used donor money for Botox, is scandalised by the behaviour of his former colleagues, and he promises to tell all. Scrolling down the page, I find out that there is an international conference on climate solutions going on. Oh! It seems quite a number of experts feel we’re approaching a crisis point, and all of civilization is on the line. Hm!
Anyway, young people are voting for right wing parties again. “…the woke ones from the big cities,” says one, “care about the climate and gender stuff but they are ignoring the real problems that we have here and now.”
Friday, December 01, 2023
Travelogue 1112 – 1 December
Dark and Light
The winter cold has descended. Rain has become intermittent hail. We have fished out our gloves and hats. And now everyone is counting the days until holidays. The youngest eagerly anticipate Sinterklaas, or ‘pakjesavond’, which is only a few days away. Little Ren is counting the days until her birthday, which happens soon after Sinterklaas. And I’m counting days until our winter break. I don’t think I’m alone in that.
It’s a time of close spaces and crowds. The cold drives us inside. It drives us into the Metros and trams and buses, all of us together, made bulky in our coats, awkward in our boots, carrying umbrellas, made grumpy by the intrusion of winter. The season drives us into stores, where the aisles are crowded, and the stock is becoming thin. We’re wet; we’re shivering. We are unusually tired, simply from the lack of light and from all the minor discomforts that follow us among our errands, like the gnats of summer, but more persistent.
That said, there are surprising appearances of good cheer. Everywhere there is sudden largesse. Last night, Little Ren had her gymnastics class. The teenage girls who run the class had turned the school gym in Blijdorp into a fun obstacle course. A contingent of Piets arrived and handed out little craft kits. At the end, the older girls distributed bags of candy. The little girls were very excited.
It's a funny season, full of contradictions. We do our best to spark other types of illumination as the sun withdraws its light.
Wednesday, November 29, 2023
Messy
It was a jarring sight. Teachers from the girls’ school were gathered in front of the main entrance, sitting on the ground in a semi-circle. They had set small tents up, and they sat in sleeping bags. As the children began to gather and stare at them, the teachers sang songs. The children were entranced.
My girls had to explain to me. The teachers were camping out here to prevent Rommel Piet from getting into the school. Sinterklaas arrived in the Netherlands a few weeks ago. The saint travels with a coterie of ‘Piets’, who are his assistants. One of those Piets is notorious now and may be known to my readers: ‘Zwarte Piet’ or Black Piet. Because he has become so controversial, Zwarte Piet keeps a low profile these days, at least in urban Holland. Another of the Piets is Rommel Piet. ‘Rommel’ means mess, and Rommel Piet likes to steal into homes and schools and leave a huge mess, mischievously tipping chairs over and hiding things. Every year he seems to break in somehow, to make a 'rommel' of the classrooms, and every year the teachers try to thwart him.
I enjoy this small survival of the trickster in a culture so dedicated to order. It speaks in some way to my soul, so lost in the thicket called November. What was so jarring about the sight of teachers sitting on the ground was the season. It was near freezing, and chilly showers had been coming and going. Seeing them on the ground was to empathically feel the cold and wet concrete against one’s tender morning skin. And yet, those dedicated teachers smiled and welcomed the children, and they cheerfully offered up songs about the saint.
Tuesday, November 28, 2023
Candles
Dante is reciting from the “Inferno” from the shelter of an open portico. The cobble stones in this piazza tilt upward, as they did in the last one, and as we follow the incline, past the steps of a medieval church toward a passage between the side of the church and the shops lining the lane, we climb to another piazza at another level. Two high, square towers rise above us, like a medieval version of New York’s ill-fated Twin Towers. We are nearing the top of the hill.
Is it a dream, Dante reciting for coins, and tourists queueing up a hundred metres for gelato? No, this is a memory. I am recapturing bits from my trip in October. This is the hike through the village of San Gimignano, a funny and lovely little place an hour or so outside Florence in Tuscany, where the burgers of the Middle Ages competed with each other to build the highest tower. At one time there were 72 of them standing on this Tuscan hill. These days, it’s the tourists fighting for attention, shopping for boar’s sausage or elbowing in at a vista for their selfie. But still it’s a beautiful village with long views of the green hills and their vineyards round about.
Like consciousness itself, memory occupies an ambiguous position between light and its shadows, retreating one way from noxious fogs generated by stress or virus, retreating another from their abrupt seizure and distortion during sleep, advancing toward the light whenever the force of neglect threatens to drown it forever in the unconscious.
As in the case of the mysterious unconscious, memory inspires all manner of theories. Whole memories exist somewhere, like Plato’s perfect forms; memories are glimpses of a universal tapestry, containing all the data of life; memories suggest in their ephemeral nature the final extinguishing of self. They are special sight; they are psychic rubbish. But certainly memories come to comprise so much of the content of thought that they assume a special place in the day. We come to be living in memory as much as living in experience.
Perhaps one day, sorting through the bits and bobs of childhood, I find a trapdoor. And I open the door to see Scaliger looking back. Is he as lonely as I am, he in his time, and I in mine? He has celebrated his last Christmas. It’s grey winter, and he sits alone in his study. Young Heinsius has been by to check on him, but now he must return to his work. Instead, he studies the wavering flame of a candle. He does this to recover his focus. The house in Leiden is gloomy in winter, even in the afternoon. He has one candle against the darkness.
Friday, November 24, 2023
Nothing
I was too hopeful, it seems. We all were in thinking that the nominal centrist Pieter Omtzigt would be the big winner on Wednesday. Instead, it was Holland’s longstanding crazy uncle, Geert Wilders. It only made sense. Rutte had spent most of his career fighting off the steady encroachment by Wilders into the mainstream. We had placed too much faith in centrism and too little in Rutte’s political skills. So the genie of hate is out of his bottle. It will be hard now to dismiss him as a crank, but it does remain to be seen how stable any government Wilders could assemble would actually be. His sort of provocative rhetoric plays well to a crowd but may not get him far in negotiations with serious politicos when the press is outside the room. It’s a corollary of the new politics, best demonstrated by congressional Republicans in the U.S. ‘Vote for me, I’ll achieve nothing!’ could be their slogan. They still win elections. The twenty-first-century electorate is made up of cackling masochists. Modern voters seem to take as their model 80s football hooligans, happy to trash their own stadium for a laugh. There’s no shame the morning after. It’s part of the game; it’s someone else’s job to clean up.
I woke again to the pitter-pat of little raindrops on the dark panes of our windows. I’m up hours before first light in this season, and my first task is Sinterklaas duty. The girls’ shoes are in the entryway, and I have to quietly drop gifts into the shoes. First, I get to read the heart-breakingly sweet notes my girls have written to the saint. Little Ren is just learning to write, and her notes are sometimes cryptic, always illustrated with her drawings, asking for some gift, astonishingly cute. I am alone in the morning with these notes in the morning, wishing time would stop.
In some sense time has already stopped. The month of November is a kind of sinkhole of consciousness, even when it doesn’t begin with convalescence from COVID. November is always a convalescence, existentially, a convalescence from itself, from decay. Its darkness is a course of treatment, a round of waters from Lethe, a dip in chilly waters, a subsidence of consciousness. We are reminded that living is experiencing the shifting boundary between consciousness and unconsciousness. We spend the years explaining that moving line to each other. The unconscious is inside us. It is the divine; it is the true consciousness. It is the blackness from which consciousness miraculously arose and which will swallow us again. It is a source of wisdom. We own it. God owns it. It is literally nothing. All these things we tell each other, explaining a mystery that – if there is in fact design to the universe – was specifically designed to be unknowable.
Tuesday, November 21, 2023
Pieter Omtzigt seems the favourite to take Rutte’s place, presenting himself as the amiable face of centrism. The Dutch can’t really countenance extremism, after all. They flirt with it, but they can’t yet stomach the wild narcissism of a demagogue like Trump. Sadly, being a centrist in our time means taking positions that used to be solidly right-wing. For example, he has to be tough on immigrants. Further, he has to be sceptical about international education. There’s a whole choir of demagogues who want to limit higher education in English. I’m not sure who forms their political base here; in more than ten years, I’ve never met a Dutch person who was at all bothered about the ubiquity of English in Holland. If anything, they seem proud of it. But self-defeating nationalism seems the cause of the day.
Today Little Ren starts her day at the gym, which stands apart from the school building, across the small courtyard and playground. Because we usually arrive early, she stands among a small group of young ones at the door, waiting for the gym teacher. She says, “Papa, please wave to me by the school.” I don’t like leaving for work until I see the gym has been opened, and the children are safely inside. And I always kiss my girls before they go into school, and we wave to each other every day. “You can stay, but stand by the school, Papa.” She’s embarrassed to have me stand with her at the gym. My heart breaks a little, but I say all right. She stills gives me my kiss, and she waves good-bye as she walks across the playground and toward the gym.
Saturday, November 18, 2023
Travelogue 1107 – 18 November
The Toggles
The Netherlands is a caricature of itself in this year’s November, dripping, drizzling, grey and dark. It never stops. I rode home on the bike this afternoon, all the way from Blaak, struggling with the hood of my rain jacket. The jacket is a voluminous thing that wraps around me in such an excess of material that I can rarely identify the ends of it. It flaps as I ride, something like Batman’s cape, or so I imagine. It is probably less romantic than that to fellow cyclists, more of a nuisance. And the hood is a shapeless sack that refuses to cooperate. More often than not, I have to hold it closed at my neck with one hand as I ride, adding that much more to my nuisance factor on the road. Why can’t it simply snap shut? Instead, there are two odd little toggles on strings that tighten the rim of the hood but then release it when you let go. I’ve tried too often to tie these accursed cords together while riding, entirely unsuccessfully. But that is daily life in rainy Holland, raingear on and off, fiddling with zippers and toggles, carrying a bag of raingear everywhere I go, jackets and pants for myself and the girls, just so I never find myself wanting. I’m running to work, or I’m picking girls from school, rucksacks and gym bag hanging off me. That is daily life in the rain and cold, constrictions and weight on your back. I wonder if native Nederlanders who grew up in this climate feel the burden. I wonder if their sight is unchanged. I can’t help the feeling of horizons closing in, the rain pushing my head down, the fogs and clouds obscuring distances, my errant hood pulled tight around my head for as long as I can manage, eyes on the road so I don’t splash or slip. It’s the physical analogue for the work COVID did on me after coming home from Italia. Memories are weakened as much as the lungs, and the boundaries of life and consciousness close in. What is it to be alive? One wonders when those horizons contract, when one hardly sees past the first three metres before your front tire.
Tuesday, November 14, 2023
But, Soft!
And the skies closed in again. One day of (qualified) sunshine was enough. The rats had received their rewards, their small pellets of psychic sugar, and then it was back to the maze. Fogs returned, as though rising from the ground, while clouds were driven eastward over us, driven by the darkness at their heels. They brought mists and showers.
Time gets lost in these vapours. Was it summer once? When did school start up again? It seems as though I was always getting up at 5:30 and preparing lunches. My girls and I have walked together, hand in hand, for an unending series of mornings, through the misty air to the Metro, while rush hour surged around us. But, soft! what light through faded memory breaks? Just one month ago, we were leaving for Italia. Jumbled pictures emerge from the clouded mind, the cold and echoing space of Schiphol, a narrow, cobbled lane outside a small hotel, the fountain in the Piazza della Signoria. But the dim Dutch light of the day won’t sustain it. The memories dissipate.
The vapours and the showers have collaborators. Now I recall: the day we returned from abroad, I was already sick. I was in bed for three days with COVID, and, by the time I stood again, the beautiful trip had faded among the feverish dreams of unhappy returns. I was straight back into work, braving the heavy shadows of November.
Sunday, November 12, 2023
Rain Shy
The shreds of blue sky were a surprise. The bits of sunshine on the pavement were disorienting. The sustained appearance of the sun – all day! – left us startled, standing still with an anticipation of disappointment, something like dread. If we were not careful, we might drive away this strange advent of luck.
The wind and the rain had been plaguing us, following us for weeks, rarely leaving us in peace. Glancing outside while preparing to go accomplished nothing but the awakening of curses. If the air was still outside the window, the rains would start before we made it a hundred metres from home. If it was raining, it would only persist, while the wind pulled at our umbrellas.
Venturing out into the sunshine was unnerving. There were clouds on the horizon that caused us to flinch. We packed all our rain gear. But even when we were furthest from shelter, crossing the widest square, circling construction sites and diverted by malfunctioning doors, the skies stayed benevolent. I stopped to stare at the patches of blue. Was this a new style of torment? Watch the rain-shy dash for cover for no reason, just as a trauma reflex! It would have amused a cruel god.
Resentment aside, it was a day of wonder. The forecast for the morrow was gloomy, but we enjoyed the moment. Some people showed a doomsday instinct, acting recklessly, wild gleam in their eye. But most of us walked in a daze, not sure what to do with the good fortune in November.
Sunday, October 01, 2023
Travelogue 1104 – 1 October
Bright Spots
The day after the violence, I was struggling through my schedule. I was struggling against a headache, persistent and aggressive; I was struggling against a streak of petty bad luck that was just as persistent, like a worm in my gut. I didn’t want to admit that I was also struggling against an emotion, an abiding despair left by the events of the day before, the violence.
Little Ren had hockey in the morning, and she was having her own struggles. I didn’t know it yet, but she was fighting against a resurgent flu bug. She was cranky and recalcitrant, and she cried over every obstruction to her cravings for sweets and comforts and every colourful distraction.
I had to step in as coach for the girls’ team, and, though we enjoyed our time on the pitch, getting off the hockey club property was arduous. Little Ren wouldn’t budge without chips from the concession inside, but the clubhouse was mad with crowds and my head was throbbing. I stood in line two different times, the unmoving line amid screaming kids and jostling parents, until I finally bailed and insisted that we go. Little Ren sulked and balked.
Once I had finally cajoled her onto the bike, once I had pedalled away from the club, up the long hill to the bridge across the highway, and pedalled halfway across the Erasmus University campus, I realized that, in the confusion, I had left behind my jacket and, in my jacket pocket, my wallet. It’s a good thing it was Saturday, and the campus was nearly empty, because I gave way to a fit of shouting into the winds that I am not proud of, particularly with my child as witness. “This is a terrible day!” Things to that effect.
Some time after that, having stopped for one more among a loathsome list of errands, we exited the store to find our bike blocked by a wheelchair. I was not gracious; I uttered some unkind observations. A man settled into that wheelchair just as I was trying to unlock my bike, squeezed into an uncomfortable corner. The man did not apologize. In fact, he asked for help putting on his jacket.
Surprisingly, my mood completely changed. I helped him. He was not the most charming man; he was brusque in his orders. This jacket, apparently gifted from a local delivery service, had two zippers, and both were difficult to line up and to pull. He was impatient and gruff, and I didn’t mind at all. I don’t know why, but this was one of the few bright moments of the day, perhaps because I was allowed to escape my own misery.
The other brief moment of sunshine on that day came after a particularly painful cleaning at the hygienist. I gathered up Little Ren, who waited patiently for me through my suffering. We left the building and walked immediately to the closest chocolate shop, where we ordered cannoli’s, coffee, and sugary drinks. Was it a thought that I had earned some credits, or was it a guilty pleasure? Whatever the case, the day ended on a happy note. We sat at the window, watched the shoppers stroll by in the afternoon light, and did bad things to our teeth.
Friday, September 29, 2023
Kafka describes the day a lazy day butcher led a live ox into his shop for people to tear their meat from it alive. “I lay for a whole hour flat on the floor at the back of my workshop with my head muffled in all the clothes and rugs and pillows I had simply to keep from hearing the bellowing of that ox ….”
The man who went on a mad shooting spree in Rotterdam yesterday was known to the police. He had been charged with animal cruelty two years previously. Some of the parents at my daughters’ school knew exactly who he was, the man with angry eyes who beat his dog. He lived around the corner from the school. The woman he shot and killed had complained about him. Something snapped, and he went after the woman. He also killed the woman’s 14-year-old daughter. Then he torched their flat. All this happened while children left several schools a few hundred metres away, in two directions. Then the madman ran to the hospital where he had been failing in his studies. He shot a teacher and attempted to start another fire.
The helicopters and convoys of emergency vehicles were a society’s testimony that we weren’t falling apart. Who was convinced? People were edgy, glaring at each other angrily and fearfully.
One parent texted, “Zal denken dat is meer een verhaal van America dan van Rotterdam.” But America limps on, and we do, too. The city takes it, absorbs it. We survive. We survive in the company of the murderer, a reminder of the terrible face of survival.
Saturday, September 09, 2023
Capricious Spirits
These summer interludes, when all day long the skies are clear and the temperatures are high, they inspire in me some sentimentality. Maybe it’s nostalgia. I’ve lived long, nearly equal periods of life settled in places known for their weather, either for glorious sunshine or for inclement weather. I’ve been ten years now in one of the latter, in a place famous for its dreary stretches of the wet and overcast. A day of rain would be another day of rain. But a day of sunshine is special. For people who have always lived here, it’s a day of release, a day to party. For me, it’s an echo of other places and times. Perhaps, in a similar way, a rainy day releases melancholy reflections in those who have moved to L.A.
The ghost is restless again. In the middle of the night, it found Josie’s doggie toy, the one that walks and barks, while its eyes light up. I had to stumble out of bed and down the stairs to turn the toy off. These are odd gestures. I continue to wonder about the modus operandi of ghosts. I find their logic really fascinating. What do these weird little gestures add up to?
In a similar spirit, I’ve been drawn into the recent media discussions about UFOs. We are positing that aliens have solved the enormous problems posed by the vastness of the universe and discovered a primitive intelligence that cannot seriously represent much of a puzzle for them. And what do they do with this discovery? Oh, they hang around, much in the manner of ghosts, playing hide and seek for fifty years, pranking our navy pilots and pantsing our farmers, leaving puzzles in the form of crop circles, and generally being silly. I think I would take a shine to an interstellar species that was this frivolous.
Tuesday, August 29, 2023
Old As Time
Did Adam and Eve invent walking? That was Baby Jos’s question this morning as we walked to the tram. I didn’t know what to answer. She is usually insistent upon an answer but spared me her habitual discipline because I was sick. I had been up half the night with a stomach bug, and I was miserable. I had been retching so violently the night before my throat was too sore to speak. I was shuffling along behind them, whereas I am generally the one urging them to speed up. “Or did we invent walking in modern times?” The second question made my task easier. Given that choice, it was definitely Adam and Eve. Baby Jos made a good point: they had to be able to walk to leave Eden. “That means,” she said, rolling her eyes in a silly suggestion that she would faint away with the enormity of the thought, “that walking is as old as time.” In a traditional Christian timeframe, she is right.
There is something timeless to being outside when you are sick. To move is to float, and to think is to slide downhill in mud. You haven’t the energy for ranging thought. What concentration you have is tightly focussed: must get to the tram. But the effort of even that is exhausting. Mostly you drift along in a fog. At the hour of school drop-off, everyone in Rotterdam is adrenalized and intent. They hustle and they march and they lean into the winds of their ambition, and the drifting sick man is traversing their red-dotted-line pathways in slow motion. It is dreamlike.
There is something timeless about the weather, this early autumnal cool and these early autumnal clouds. The weather does not vary for days, even weeks. The mornings dawn in grey light, and you reluctantly reach for your jackets. If there is variety, it lies in the unpredictable light showers that catch up to you while you are walking. We caught a few light drops this morning. By the time I had registered it and lifted my distracted gaze up into the mysteries of the grey mists, they had gone.
Sunday, August 27, 2023
Sunday Echoes
I wake to the brassy, slurring voice of a neighbour on his balcony, speaking loudly on his mobile. It’s 7am on a Sunday, the Sunday after our first week of school and work, and, as it happened, not the fun week it should have been: Ren was sick, and I had an unhappy start at work. Opening the front door to investigate, I watch him sway on his balcony, holding the mobile away from him, dancing for his auditor, laughing, waving. The courtyard rings with his shouts.
Above and around him, nature has woken. The sky is light, though full of clouds like grey pillow stuffing. The air is cool with a hint of autumn. The seagulls are whistling and laughing. Below, the pavements are damp. Surrounding him is the usual silence of a Sunday morning. He doesn’t hear the morning; he hears the cackling from the mobile.
The work week could have been better. Our return to our home campus, moving into our new building, was marred by politics - the keynote of our times. We’re sorely understaffed, after management’s budget panic last year. Management itself has been shuffled, and we’re starting the year short-staffed above as well as below. We met in unfinished rooms, taking inventories of people missing, listening to our echoes in the new rooms, where wires still hung out of ceilings and walls. We inventoried our teaching schedules, overloaded to compensate for the decimation. One colleague, hearing me say my schedule didn’t seem bad, ran straight to the only manager working that day to request in echoes that I be given her classes to teach.
Sunday, August 20, 2023
Playing With Dolls
Suddenly, the girls are playing with dolls. They each have a baby doll; they’ve had them for a while, though they didn’t play much with them before. Now the two sisters are very busy together, dressing up their babies, crafting for them cribs and buggies from cardboard boxes and luggage trolleys, and acting out the things that mamas do, lulling the babies to sleep, feeding them, scolding them. And keeping up long dialogues between them, involving mommies and poppies and babies and their sisters. It’s an all-consuming activity; we have trouble breaking in and getting their attention when it’s time to eat. They insist the babies must accompany them to the table. It’s a mania. It’s fun. And I wonder what their subjective experience is playing these games. I contend that the wall in our heads between what is real and what is not real is not so solid as we maintain. By the time we’re adults, perhaps we channel that experience into story-telling, surrendering to our books and movies, "suspending disbelief", as the theory goes. But fundamentally, things can be real and unreal at the same time. Maturity lies in the faith that there is a difference.
Reading the British press, a breaking and disturbing story in recent weeks has been the trial and sentencing of Lucy Letby, a nurse who murdered seven babies while on the job and attempted to kill six more. It’s a bizarre and heart-breaking story. It’s also puzzling, in the usual way with serial killers. There were no indications to friends or co-workers that this rather bland personality – nicknamed the ‘beige nurse’ by the police investigator on the case – was dangerous. A Guardian writer watched the accused during her trial for tell-tale signs of motive. He could reach no conclusion. He did offer some odd observations. During the trial, the murderous nurse didn’t cry at the testimony of her crimes, but cried during recounting of her rather ordinary life and her pathetic affair with a married colleague. She was inspired to a showy kind of pride when questioned about medical procedure. It suggests a disturbing psychological profile. Her parents were in the gallery every day. What were their thoughts?
I was put in mind, when Kundera passed, of the phrase he borrowed for the title of his novel, “the unbearable lightness of being”. I have reason to contemplate it every day. If every age distinguishes itself by finding new ways to be careless with the real lives of others, ours may prove to be one of the more creative ones. We enshrine the narcissistic complex bred by post-war prosperity, we institutionalize it and allow it rampant gambols round the globe, inverting measures of reality, until the interior story of the world is more real than objective evidence. A nurse cries herself to sleep over disappointing romances, and when she wakes she plots the death of innocents. Captured, she pities herself; accused, she pities herself. Shame is stunted. We treat guilt therapeutically so that the ego may have more range for play.
Thursday, August 03, 2023
Humans
The girls have dug up last year’s tails. They’re watching “Trolls” on TV, contentedly stretched out in their life-size, elastic mermaid tails. I’m not sure where the mer-impulse came from, but their whims turn with dizzying speed these days. The tails extend, in their blue and purple glory, from the hip all the way past their toes. They wave the tails like ‘real’ mermaids. “Are mermaids real?” Little Ren asks earnestly.
Maybe the minor mermaid craze arose from Baby Jos’s short obsession with tails. “What if I wake up one day, and I have a tail?” she asked with a big smile. She wished it would happen. “What would my teacher think?” she asked. I’m stumped by questions like those. But I am getting used to staggering amounts of questions from the girls. They are factories of wondering questions. I thought the questions were a phase; that was a few years ago. No one told me the questions phase was … childhood. At the end of the day, when I’m tired, I’m usually two questions behind, answering on a delay, answering the rainbow question when they’ve already moved on to fairies. “Where do fairies live, Papa?” “You can never really find the ends,” I answer. Somehow it all meshes into its own sense.
But I do remember the power of these childhood passions. I am reminded of the things I wished for at a similar age, and wished for with intensity. I wanted to fly, and I wanted to be able to time travel. I wanted to be able to change into animal form whenever I wanted. The possible and the impossible existed together in the same thought. I ‘knew’ the things I wanted were impossible, but it was within a child’s power to believe in possibility. Growing older, I remember deciding that if I believed in something strongly enough, it would be required to manifest. Then I concluded that believing strongly enough was knowing. And knowing something was possible meant forgetting that it was ever impossible. That negated the magic, and I lost interest.
While Baby Jos wanted a tail, Little Ren wanted a unicorn horn. That would give her magical powers. Little Ren is mercurial. She moves from unicorns to sombrely posing the question, “But I just want to know why I exist.” Wow, I say, that’s a big question. When you figure it out, let me know. “Why am I me?” she asks.
Little Ren is the philosopher, it seems. She’s the one who has wrestled with the term “human”. When she was younger, she used ‘human’ to describe adults. There were children, and there were humans. I was a bit mortified by that, but I don’t like rushing in with a negative: “don’t say that!” The word naturally evolved into a descriptor of people – “there are so many humans on the street” – to a somewhat fluid identifier to draw contrast with animals – “fluid” because sometimes nice animals can sometimes be human.
Tuesday, August 01, 2023
Summer Vacation?
It’s the first of August. That date is a signal to the mood centres of the brain, a trigger for depression. I’m a teacher, and I’m a teacher in a country in which school years stretch from mid-August to mid-July.
School years in America started in September and ended in June. By the time September came, there was a hint of autumn in the air, you were rested, and you were eager to get started again. In the Netherlands, summer vacation feels just long enough to run some errands, catch up with your team of doctors and dentists, see a few friends … once each, and perhaps squeeze in a rushed and tense trip in order to store images in your phone for winter.
July turns to August, and you find the “vacation” unconvincing. Work is a beast already catching up on you, its hot breath on your neck. And it’s a formidable beast, whose tail reaches deep into the summer of the next year. One returns to work with a half-charged battery. I’ve noticed that European school years start slowly and quietly, taking a good month to build momentum. I remember American school years galloping out of the gate.
It doesn’t help that the last day of July was a rainy one. It was chilly; the rain barely paused all day. The girls and I ventured out to buy last minute party items; it was Menna’s birthday. We surprised her when she arrived home. We lit the candles on the cake, and the clouds outside made the house as dark as though it were October.
Sunday, July 23, 2023
The Butcher
I had a session with Dirk the Butcher yesterday. He was so enthusiastic, he found extra pain to inflict. One cavity was not enough. He found a series of them in my front teeth, and he was reluctant to let me up from his chair. “I have so much time left in our appointment. Why don’t we take care of it?” I submitted reluctantly. The truth is, I have found some appreciation for the Butcher, his ham-handed Dutchness, his sad blue eyes, his rough grace. There’s no disputing his efficiency as a dentist. He attacks with a sure hand, and the results are solid. The pain was intense after the session, but it passed quickly. I looked into the mirror and saw a cleaner smile.
I wondered what sort of psychology lurked in the long narrow skull of the Butcher. Who does this job for so long? People fear you; they tremble as they sit in your chair. You have short, emotional encounters with people, during which they cannot speak. They walk out in a daze of pain and violation. The meetings are physically intimate but formal and impersonal. I can’t imagine there’s much variety in the work.
Out in the world, people must shudder when a dentist shares with them his or her profession. It’s a bit like being an undertaker. Dirk the Butcher looks the part, somewhat underworldly, tall and pale, back a bit hunched with age and work, his eyes pale and watery and staring, his smile unsettling. He’s ageing. His arms are so scrawny, I don’t know whence the strength he exhibits when he pries open my jaw. “Relax, relax” he says curtly, as he jams one more instrument into my mouth. It’s his version of reassurance, which must, in the offices of the Butcher, be delivered in the imperative.
Monday, July 17, 2023
A favourite author passed away last week. I want to write something about Milan Kundera, and yet I find it challenging. He was a favourite in my youth; he’s someone I’ve taken for granted since then. He informs me from that distance in time, as do a set of authors who affected me powerfully back then, people as varied as Durrell and Dostoevsky, Kerouac and Eliot.
I felt I had a special right to him, I suppose, being of Czech heritage. He was one of the giants of his generation, the last Samizdat generation, the Chapter 77 generation (though he didn’t sign), the generation that also produced Havel and the writers of the new Czech constitution. Ironically, though he was possibly the most famous Czech artist at the time, he was shunned by the others for having left Czechia. I defended him. He had become an ‘international’ author, writing in French in his later years. Born to be an expat, I felt instant sympathy for his position.
The themes of ‘The Unbearable Lightness of Being’ are a young person’s themes, which is a reason it’s remained in my past. There are novels that I have brought along with me as I aged, and novels I didn’t. This is one of the latter, like, say, “On the Road”. Dostoevsky survived into my late 30s, but still fell away. Still, something of Kundera’s novel stayed with me, something of its moral courage and its frankness. I was delighted by its philosophical frame, its unembarrassed discourse on the significance of life and what was significant about living. He seemed refreshingly free of the self-conscious jadedness I was used to, and far from devaluing what he said, his ‘naivete’ was pulled off with clarity, wit and sophistication.
It was a special time. The present times have become so dark, these dire 2020s become so much more like the 1930s than the Roaring 20s, so serious, so portentous, that I think we have grown to distrust the preceding decades. They plotted against us. Everything that seemed cheery was a wink among conspirators. Politics and climate and globalism and the tech revolution were all poisoned, and done so deliberately. But it was a special time. I was in Slovakia in the early 90s. I would never have known that certain emotions were actually possible if I hadn’t been there. Labelling them as optimism or hope would only make me a target for trolling in the Bitter 20s. I’ll keep my counsel. But I regret sometimes how Eastern Europe became so overshadowed by Ethiopia in my own story. I haven’t often had the opportunity to contemplate and appreciate the former. Thinking of Kundera brings something back.
Wednesday, July 12, 2023
This is how our summer started. Thursday was the girls’ last day at school. Baby Jos celebrated with stunts off the group swing in the playground out front. She fell badly and broke her arm. We spent the afternoon at the hospital getting x-rays, a cast, and unwelcome doses of Dutch bedside manner, which sound to the uninitiated like the grim voice of Dread. They made her cry.
The next morning, we had to bring her in for an operation. I was emotional. She had to be put under general anaesthetic. It’s the second time already Baby Jos has had to be put under. I find it too hard to take. Menna stayed with Baby Jos, and I was put in charge of her little sister. Little Ren and I explored the hospital. We had snacks in the café. We bought balloons. When it was time, we raced up to her room. Baby Jos was groggy but already cheerful. Good!
That was Friday, my last day of work during this school year. I had been scheduled to meet with my supervisor for my appraisal, on literally the last possible day. We postponed until the fall. I was able to make my second meeting of the day, late in the afternoon. This meeting was a mentor session with a literary agent. I had scheduled the meeting weeks earlier, thinking I would be in a great headspace, summer started and my writing in full swing. Instead, I was drained and distracted. I hadn’t scheduled one of these meetings in a long time because I had undertaken a major edit of the book. Not so humbly, I expected a glowing word or two. Not so humbly, she trashed it. I left the call more than schooled and defeated.
Saturday was a hot one; the temperatures stifled all thought. Sunday was busy with kids’ activities for the girls, a birthday party and a final ballet class. I spent the day worrying about Baby Jos.
Monday started with an email from my employer announcing that my supervisor was leaving. What happened? I thought. Was it me? Now I’ll start the year with an appraisal from a stranger, looking over the notes from an odd year, a year full of medical issues and tumult.
Later in the morning, I had a dental appointment scheduled. I had been unhappy with this dentist, but I only had a few cavities to fill. What could go wrong? The dentist quickly answered that unfortunate question, throwing up her hands halfway through the filling operation and saying she would go no further. She treated me like a recalcitrant school child, crossing her arms, and crying that the operation was too difficult. She would stuff in a temporary filling and refer me to her colleague Dirk, whom I call “The Butcher”. I will see him Friday.
Tuesday morning, I woke feeling odd. Still, I hefted Baby Jos on the bike to run some errands. Feeling light-headed, I stopped for coffee and snacks. The dizziness only increased. I rushed home, sweating for fear of losing my balance while carrying my delicate little girl on the back with a cast on her arm. Back at home, I popped the thermometer in my mouth: 39.5˚C. The rest of the day, I tossed and turned in bed, fighting nausea and fevers.
Okay, so, have I cleaned the cosmic slate? Shall a fresh morning dawn when the songbirds greet me, dropping laurels leaves in my hair, leading my family along a garden path to the beach? My faith in the Great Season is faltering.
Wednesday, June 28, 2023
When I opened the front door this morning, ready to take the girls to school, I was stunned by the sight. There was a huge column of black smoke rising from the south. The wind was blowing the smoke past us to the northeast. It was a sight to arrest the heart for a moment, The girls rushed out because I had cried out. They stared in wonder. The blaze was so intense, we could see the smoke glowing red underneath.
We had to move in the direction of the fire to go to school. Thanks to social media, I already knew what was burning. It was a building we passed every day, a colourful building in an up-and-coming little borough called Keilewerf. It was a builder’s yard, piled high with lumber. The place had a hippyish vibe, something happy and communal about it. Baby Jos would not accept that that was the building that was burning. It made her too sad. The police had cordoned off our usual route to school, so we only saw the fire from a distance. That could be any other building, Baby Jos insisted.
Think of the terror that sight would have inspired in Scaliger’s day! Fire killed. It wiped out cities. In 1452, just a century and a half before Scaliger’s day, two-thirds of Amsterdam had burned down. It was this fire we have to thank for the beautiful city we still see today. They mandated building in stone afterward, but stone was too heavy for the marshy Dutch earth. They built with brick.
Monday, June 19, 2023
It’s June. Gentle winds are shaking the leaves of the poplars, making a sound like rain. Red poppies are in bloom. There are scents of freshly cut grass in the air; there are scents of lilac. The summer hush has begun to settle over the city. This is one of my favourite times of year.
If the city has quieted, it’s not a quiet season for the girls. Their school takes them to amusement parks. Their hockey teams have picnics. They have recitals downtown. And Baby Jos celebrates her birthday. A child’s birthday is never just one day. It’s a celebration in waves. The joyous wave this week was the party for her friends. She invited her closest school friends to an adventure park, where they climbed walls and jumped on trampolines and scared themselves on obstacle courses high above the ground. They indulged in cake and cupcakes. Parents sat together and shared their exhaustion, shared photos, complained about the school and still managed to laugh.
We’re in constant motion, slaves to our springtime activities. The new summer sun has shone on all of it, imbuing everything with a surfeit of light, like living photos that were overexposed, abundant with sunshine and smiles, overwhelming the sombre Dutch colour palette with yellows, whites and greens; like memories washed out by sun and time; like the photos from our trip to Rome, in which everyone is squinting and the colours are fading into gold.
There was some concern that none of this would happen for Baby Jos because she suffered an injury to her foot a few weeks ago, having caught it in a bicycle wheel while riding behind her papa to hockey. Nothing was broken, but the doctors put her in a cast to keep the foot still while it healed. She was at first proud to be walking on crutches into school, and then she was bored and frustrated when she couldn’t play. Fortunately, it only took two weeks to get back on her feet, just in time for the parties.
The latest celebration was the recital. It fell on Father’s Day. I couldn’t have asked for a better way to commemorate the day. The girls were excited to wear make-up, proud to be on stage, transfixed by the crowds of parents cheering them on.
Baby Jos tells me it’s my best Father’s Day ever, and she’s immediately right. It was true before she said it. It is true because she says it. I’m perfectly happy.
Sunday, May 28, 2023
Suddenly I’m alone. Menna and the girls have gone to a church camp. The flat is eerily silent. I haven’t been alone like this in a long time, and it’s disorienting.
I miss them. I pause to think about what they would be doing at each moment. When I should be catching up on my own work, I stop to clean up, picking up the girls’ things, which lie scattered around the flat as though there were an explosion.
One thing I find is their jar of snails. Last week, they became unaccountably fascinated by snails and slugs. I suppose it was because of the advent of spring, and the work their mother had initiated on the potted plants outside. Among the leaves, in the soil, and underneath the pots were all kinds of fun little creatures. Baby Jos fancies herself a scientist and has no fear of slimy things. Little Ren loves whatever her sister loves. They have decided that snails are cute. They have decided that slugs are cute. In fact, they are desperate for pets; they have been for a while. Unfortunately, their papa is allergic to half the animal kingdom and is too grouchy to deal with the rituals that would no doubt devolve upon him.
Concurrent with their snails-for-pets moment came their lemonade-stand moment. It made for a strange alignment. They set up a table outside our door last weekend, but not for lemonade. It was for a view of their snails, set out for public inspection on a pair of plastic beach shovels, filled with mud and their creeping pets. They made a cute sign asking for two euros. But then when neighbours did stop to look, they were too shy to ask for their fee.
I’m laughing at the memory, sitting alone at my computer. The solitude doesn’t weigh on me yet, but it is insistent. It is an insistent fact of life, isn’t it? From the moment one becomes aware of one’s essential solitude, one is never allowed to forget it. It’s as concrete an aspect of life as there is. An argument could be made that solitude is the central problem we seek to solve with religion.
Religion tells us that we are never actually alone, and not just sentimentally but metaphysically: there are invisible beings around us all the time. It makes a certain intuitive sense, doesn’t it? As singular as we are in our heads, in our bodies, we never quite achieve absolute solitude. Even an atheist would concede that life is a continual negotiation with others.
And if one were to concede the rather elementary metaphysical point implied by an all-powerful God that exists untouched by time, that all things exist at once, then the space we inhabit becomes very crowded. Perhaps it’s religion’s most salient point: we are not alone. One might expect that an afterlife would offer a lifting of the veils, the veil that separates us from one another, and the veil that separates us in time.
This idea of timelessness does complicate the idea of reincarnation a bit. In actuality, Scaliger and I exist simultaneously. So his scepticism that I represent “progress” is justified. And it essentially posits that one soul is a community, and a fairly large one at that, according to most accounts of reincarnation that I’m familiar with. It not only puts into question the idea of progress, in time without time, but the idea of an atomized soul that requires hard boundaries with other atomized souls.
What the reincarnationist theory still represents to me is the drive to domesticate the other by calling it all “me”. It’s the cannibal’s solution to solitude.
Saturday, May 20, 2023
When Scaliger died in Leiden, it was in January. Such a grey and desolate time in Holland: I’m not sure that it was the winter that killed him, but it was certainly a sad backdrop for what looks to have been a lonely death. Apparently, the great man was a bit of a curmudgeon. (The evidence is mounting!) He had resisted the idea of moving to Leiden, but the university raised such a sweet and enticing siren song. He would take over the chair formerly belonging to the great Lipsius. He would be the only professor allowed to wear the red gown. He would be exempted from lecturing. He would be allowed to hand-select his students (among whom would be Hugo Grotius, the great Dutch humanist). He was finally lured, but one senses that he never quite settled in or felt at home. He complained bitterly about the Dutch (the resemblance is uncanny!), describing Leiden as “one crowded pub” and complaining about the noise. “On days of fasting” he wrote, “they start drinking very early in the morning.” He had the university move him from house to house, because he longed for more space and peace of mind. His last house he described as a hovel. It was cold, and it leaked, which is no small matter in the Netherlands. This is where he died in mid-winter. It sounds miserable.
Can two bios be the same soul, I have asked? The question is condensed, and yet it contains within its several words so many big assumptions. Belief is a complicated machine, hiding many working gears inside. It reminds me of the twentieth-century shell game of finding the smallest particle, leading us from molecules to atoms, to protons, to quarks until suddenly we were saddled with an uncanny new world view, or set of world views, thrust upon us by quantum mechanics. It’s exhausting. We might have been happier with molecules.
Scaliger looks down the centuries at me, and he asks, “Is that me?” Between us is an unfathomable gap, and the concept of “me” is instantly swallowed up in it. Whatever we may decide the soul is, we don’t get to say it’s Scaliger. Scaliger died when the animal body died. The man was the man, and whatever escaped at death was not the man. When we mourn, we mourn truly: the human life has ended. What’s more, if we find ourselves alienated – even unconsciously – by the “other” in human form, then any meditation on the concept of a soul ought to be a very sober one. It’s a ‘thing’ as alien as possible, and probably itself gave rise as much to our terrors of ghosts and demons as to visions of celestial angels gaining their wings.
It’s just that this problem of finite life is too often approached from the perspective of death. When our purpose is to defang death, our dreams about the afterlife are two-dimensional and cartoonish. We approach the light, essentially still human. But death is not the "other"; life is. Life is the uncanny. Death is a placeholder like zero. Life is strange and prolific. It surges and resurges in weird shapes, hungry and irresistible.
Saturday, May 13, 2023
What would Scaliger have to say, if I laid claim to his life? He expected to find himself in Christian heaven, but here I am telling him he’s evolved into … me. “This is evolution?” he will ask. And how shall I answer?
I had no idea what a fun pastime looking for past lives was! But do I believe in reincarnation? Do I believe that two bios could be the same soul? Well … there are some fundamental problems with the questions, and they begin, like most problems, with the assumptions behind the terms.
People are surprisingly promiscuous with their ‘beliefs’. I am more conservative. Maybe I’m the one taking the term too seriously. What is a belief? It’s so insubstantial, I wonder the purpose. I have no reason to doubt someone who says they ‘believe’ in reincarnation. Not only am I unable to disprove what they believe; I am unable to disprove that they believe. So what role does the confession “I believe” take? I suppose it sets up a contrast. “I believe” suggests “unlike others” or “unlike you”. The confessional purpose then becomes either persuasion or defence. Saying it internally, it may be an avowal or a vow, again separating one from others.
Removing belief from the thing believed, what is it? Is it a kind of warm feeling of confidence or security? If I say, “I think”, it affirms an opinion and admits its basis in logical thought; it admits a vulnerability to persuasion. If I say, “I wish”, it allows for absence of validity. If I say, “I know”, it claims verifiability. Many mystics will use that tactically: “I know, and you could know, too.” Verifiability lies in the mystic experience, spoken of on this plane, proven on another. Two people who have met on another plane can wink about it here, but that’s about the sum value of it on this plane.
Language gives us away. While a conspiracy theorist can claim any wild source and any level of cognitive relationship with the information, a rational person can only claim knowledge with a plural subject.
“I know the election was fair,” or “I know climate change is real” sounds a bit overwrought. Instead, you hear, “We know that climate change is real”. Why? Because most knowledge is communal. The principle that knowledge is verifiable makes it communal. It’s one of the beauties of knowledge.
For me, the phrase “I believe” ends up being little more than a rhetorical device. Like, I have come to this conclusion instinctively.
Monday, May 01, 2023
Travelogue 1088 – 1 May
The sixteenth century was a time of tumult. It was also a time of significant scholarship, the time of Galileo and of Erasmus. Humanism and classical studies were the pursuit of many scholars, and there were so many of them working on classical languages and philosophy that it’s easy to stumble upon whole sets of them that you had never heard of before.
Not all the French humanists were in Paris. One cantankerous old writer was based in Agen, near Valence, in southwestern France. Born in 1484, he had been named Giulio Cesare, a typical Renaissance name, harking back to Roman history. He was Italian, but became physician to the bishop of Agen, and devoted his life to scholarship, accruing enough reputation to take on the mighty Erasmus and be taken seriously. He is remembered primarily for his defence of Aristotelianism aesthetics and science. His opinion on Seneca apparently had some effect on the young Shakespeare.
In good Renaissance form, he raised his son, Joseph Justus, on a steady diet of Latin and poetry. He made him write 80 lines of Latin every day until the Lord took him away, and his son was abandoned to his fate as overeducated youth in an age glutted with overeducated youths.
The boy distinguished himself. He studied in Paris; he studied in Valence. He travelled through Europe. Along the way, he became a Protestant. He taught in Geneva; he taught in Leiden. Between the two latter posts, he hid away on the manor of a friend, and he wrote. He studied Latin authors. He compiled histories of texts, histories of knowledge.
His contributions were in the field of textual criticism, a science dear to the hearts of Renaissance scholars. And he is credited with being the first to see the ancient world as a collection of contemporaneous civilizations, beyond the cultural borders of Greece and Rome. It included Babylonians, Jews, Persians and Egyptians, all of them sharing knowledge and culture. It’s a thought I feel some kinship with. I may love everything Greco-Roman now, but as a child I was much more interested in Egypt, Sumer, and Persia.
Scaliger, as he was called, left for Leiden in 1593, and it was to be his last academic post. He never saw France again.
He was called ‘Scaliger’ because his father maintained he was descended from the La Scala family that had ruled Verona in the Middle Ages. Enemies of Scaliger went to great lengths to prove that was not true. He fought them bitterly, maybe out of loyalty to his dear old dad, maybe threatened in his sense of self. But it’s quite likely his dad was inventing.
That's a cool bio. I felt instant affinity with it. And he was a handsome devil, too. I wish I could say I had found him by chance. The truth is, one day I woke with the name on my lips, ‘Scaliger’. I don’t know why. I had never heard of Joseph Justus or his father. Months earlier, investigating a spring trip to Italy, I had investigated Verona, and had read about the La Scala family. The name had probably remained with me. The mind is such an odd machine, so cluttered with data, barely coherent. The most one can do is marvel at the things that pop out of it.
Friday, April 28, 2023
Yesterday was King’s Day in the Netherlands, the day the country goes mad celebrating the king’s birthday. It was a beautiful day, and it just so happened that, this year, the king was going to celebrate in Rotterdam. So we dressed up in orange, and we went downtown.
The crowd wasn’t so bad at Blaak, where a stage had been erected to host hours of bland music and five minutes of royal presence. We squeezed through the people and found a spot where we could just see the stage and the two jumbo screens beside it. In good Dutch style, the king was (almost) on schedule. We didn’t have to endure for too long the carefully forgettable band filling time till he arrived. One of the screens followed the king’s progress as he and his family walked along the central streets, seeing sights on the way to us. (Imagine Charles III strolling through Manchester and waving to his people!)
Some ageing pop star mounted the stage just ahead of the king, leading the crowd through a few old standards, one of which, oddly, was in English. Then the king and queen and their several princesses appeared, waving at the crowd. Unexpectedly, I was moved to wave back, as were hundreds of others. It was a strange feeling.
Europeans sneer at the American fascination with royalty. But it is, objectively, a strange and fascinating phenomenon. In this age, royalty is an abstraction. What is a monarch? It’s an expensive indulgence; it’s an intriguing institution. At best, the royal family forms an interesting dialectic with elected officials, perhaps standing for history and decorum. At worst, they are a domesticated breed of narcissists, who entertain with their foibles. But words don’t resolve the riddle at the centre of their longevity. How do you explain it? Even at their height of power, kings and queens were not all-powerful. They were pawns of history. The most powerful among them were keen individuals quick to read and manipulate the much more powerful forces around them.
We encountered my British neighbour after the event. He seemed stunned that we would have gone to see the king. He was at pains to hold his tongue, I could see. The Brits are drearily literal on the subject of royalty. I suppose they have cause, what with recent events, what with the sheer expense of their royal house. But it’s disappointing. There are much more interesting discussions to be had about royalty than the rather obvious tut-tutting over items in the news.
Royalty came late to the Netherlands, installed after Napoleon was pushed out. But its roots reached all the way back to the sixteenth century and the Dutch fight for independence. It reached back to Willem of Orange, known as Willem the Silent, stadtholder of Holland. The latter position became a hereditary position for his family and a subtle form of royalty among the staunchly independent Dutch. Something about the Napoleonic experience made them ready to call their king a king.
The era of Willem the Silent is endlessly interesting to me. The Reformation was still raging on. Indeed, it provided the first impetus for Dutch rebellion against the Spanish. Religion was redrawing the map of Europe. Aristocracies continued their post-medieval grabs for status and territory, aligning and re-aligning with each generation. The scientific revolution was underway. Combined with the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, this is the classical era of European civilization, when it was most vital and weirdest.
Sunday, April 23, 2023
Cracking my head on the pavement gave me more than a pretty scar. It left me with a small lesson in complacency. It’s so easy for the human mind to forget things. If anything puts paid to a philosophy based on human wisdom and the human capacity to learn, it’s the balancing capacity to forget.
I’ve had my challenges in recent years – dealing with the short and the long versions of COVID, for example, – but none of my challenges have upset the safe home. The day-to-day in Holland is a far-cry from the primeval struggle to survive that may be our common heritage. I’ve become lulled by inactivity and safety into a kind of sleepy confidence in my own physical coordination. I have plenty of memories of clumsy accidents and the feeling of helplessness that accompanied those, but it took an effort to summon up that sense of falling, out of control of one’s own body. Until a few weeks ago.
I was trying a little stunt, skipping to one side on the scooter as I tried to escape getting tagged ‘it’ by Baby Jos, and suddenly I was falling. A part of my mind watched the fall with fascination. Somehow my limbs became pinned or tangled with the scooter, or with each other, and so I had no way to brace myself as I fell. During that instant, I was reminded what it felt like to be helpless. The laws of physics do take precedence, after all, over human ideas of justice and what’s commensurate. “I was just playing around,” doesn’t fly in the court of gravity and concrete.
It's a good reminder. We hurried to the hospital, and the girls watched the doctor delicately sew my face together again. I got to see a monster in the mirror for a week or so. That part was fun, and a harmless lesson that there is plenty of harm to be had. There will even be lethal harm some day.
The final struggle forms our hearts from a distance, the event that is, in fact, no event for the self, but a ceasing of events. It forms our perspective on “the other”, being perhaps the most frightening among the ranks of others. Perhaps he’s their general. He is strange, and we can't be sure how deeply his strangeness has permeated things.
Wednesday, April 12, 2023
It was Easter weekend, and I was playing with the girls out front. Things got out of hand, and I took a dive while riding one of their scooters, bashing my head against a concrete curb. I had to get a few stitches and wear lots of bandages. Now my eye is black and swollen. I look into the mirror, and I’m fascinated by the new face. This kind of accident really does change your features, temporarily. My wife looks at me in wonder. Who is this guy?
I’ve always thought it a bit tedious to see the same face in the mirror every day. Does anyone else feel that way? I observe the mania for selfies, and I think not. In any case, this little injury is kind of entertaining as an exercise in variety. I want to enjoy it, but when I go out, I feel compelled to hide it. I don a cap and look at the ground. I cover the bloody stitches with bandages. I turn away from people I have to talk to. We do these things instinctively: injuries are shameful. We might be marked for culling from the herd.
Do we read history like a mirror? Are we looking for different versions of ourselves? Sometimes I feel most fascinated by the most alien and the weirdest in history. But even then, it might be a drive to assimilate what I see, shape it into comprehensibility, make it a version of myself. It’s a metaphorical search for the self.
Some people shove past the metaphor. They literally see themselves in the faces of historical figures. Those faces they call past lives. “I have lived before. I have lived inside those faces. That is me.” It’s such an interesting form of appropriation. It reminds me of the Biblical literalists. Every religious program must have its literalists. “That really happened. That is me.”
As you open the programs of these religions, you find plenty of code designed to appropriate the other, from conversion to conquest to submission, extending to the ethical claim of the Golden Rule. Ethics itself could be read as a means of assimilating or appropriating the other. A literal claim to be the other becomes just a matter of degree.
Sunday, April 09, 2023
Travelogue 1084 – 9 April
La Scala
Part One
I had no idea what a fun pastime looking for past lives was! I found one buried in the seventeenth century, and I was quite excited! And I’m not even sure I believe in reincarnation.
Believing is a mysterious act. It comes easily to some people, but, for me, belief is something down a long road. Concepts, like stars, need to align. So, a soul passes from one life to another, learning lessons as it goes. That seems simple enough. But there are lots of assumptions underpinning the idea that I find difficult to gloss over, assumptions concerning linear time, evolution, and consciousness that behaves like indivisible atoms.
I’m a teacher. If there is a metaphysics built on learning and evolution, I should have one response: “Sign me up!” But beliefs are jealous little genies, and they don’t like giving up secrets. Souls are born to learn, but what are the yardsticks, if most of existence is unconsciousness? What are the incentives? Is the reward really beating the system thousands of years from now? Why does it take so long? The range of human virtues seems to me so narrow, I can’t imagine what occupies us for thousands of lives.
My thoughts about religion are naïve. I know they are. It’s one reason I gave up. No matter what religion I approached, something like the reverse side of Woody Allen’s dictum applied. He said that he would never join a club that would have him. The religious version might be: a religion could never open the door to someone who was outside to begin with. I just couldn’t manufacture the feeling of faith or the correct spiritual experience.
Maybe it’s just the spirit of the Easter Egg Hunt, but I was pumped to have found a past life! And it was much easier than I thought! I had no clues. I had no evidence, not even the ethereal sort that sails over the bar of most believers. No dreams or flashbacks or goosebumps. My only supporting evidence was a cool bio.
Friday, March 31, 2023
It’s spring; it’s time to cavort. Nay it’s a time to frolic. I’ll use a word with Dutch roots. We frolic in the mud that never dries, frolicking in the damp woods (of city parks,) where forest sprites still inspire us with mischief.
Can we visualise spring as an fairy or sprite like Ariel or Puck, frolicking? Then we can ask him about his gods, knowing he would lie. It’s okay to be Puck and lie about love. He’ll say the sun is the god of spring frolics, and then he’ll deny it. He’ll say that the rains rule spring.
We’ll ask Puck to tell us the name of his rain god. Which one? he might reply. He’ll reply from a height, I’m thinking. He can’t sit still. He is restless, the way sprites are. How were we to know rain gods numbered more than one?
There’s no reason for rain to have one god but there are too many reasons for many. We may ask Puck whether they are classified by geography or by storm. My hypothesis will be that they are divided by the rhythms of the rain, and I will ask for an introduction to the goddess of drizzles. Puck will not commit.
Puck will giggle, and he will evade our questions, be careless even with his lies. We will have been fine with lies, and that’s why he is coy. He giggles, and I will suspect the goddess is hovering over his shoulder. He will anticipate my question: why lie about the rains?
“It’s simply the abundance of them. How would you catch every drop?”
But that’s a dream. The mundane is something more magical. Our flat looks like spring, scattered as if with cherry petals. But no, that’s just paper. Scraps and bits and corners and strips of white paper. The girls have become obsessed with origami. They watch videos, and they create planes and birds and dogs and princess crowns. We live among the snowy scraps of pretty things.
Sunday, March 19, 2023
We’re busy writing about love. It occupies our time this spring. While cherry blossoms are finally budding under grey skies, while ducklings paddle their tiny circles in the canals, at last safe from this winter’s late freezes, we are making a haste of slow questions. It’s a lazy time of being busy, routine asserting itself among the signs of novelty.
The winds have come and gone, making for us for a season of falling. I walked my bicycle up the steep slope of the Erasmus Bridge after work, while the sun battled clouds over the river, because pedalling was too precarious, tipping us over like toys. We citizens of Rotterdam walked our bikes in a long row over the span. The sky was too big for us.
The girls are teasing us, saying we’re too serious for spring. They’re making up songs and asking us to sing along. They’re jumping in our laps when we’re relaxing, and playing ninja around us when we work. They’re asking for ice cream when we go out; they’re asking for ice cream when we’re inside. I’m enjoying every minute, even as the tension of being alive is paralysing; even when the tension of the next moment is pressing in on my lungs, I am thankful.
We’re busy writing truth and lies about love. It takes up all our time. This is a topic I’m interested in. I want to write about our truth and lies about love. I will pursue this in a separate document, and I’ll publish when the tension of love ebbs, perhaps among summer’s pauses, when dimension wavers and seems ready to fail.
Wednesday, February 22, 2023
It’s not the best time of year to let yourself go. Ageing winter leaves the ground muddy, people weary, prospects grey, and tempers short. Yet this is the moment that sanitation workers chose to go on strike. The strike lasted only five days, but by the fifth day mounds of trash had begun gathering by the garbage chutes.
Strikes in the Netherlands are very scripted. Dates are set, and the city government announces them. Advice is published on how to survive the inconvenience. The press pitches in with sidebars and commentary. Employers and school administrators make contingency plans. There’s nothing very wild about these cats.
It’s enough to make one question: did I ever really understand the point of a strike? Was it to cripple the employer? It seems to cripple everyone else more. Was it to stress the importance of the work that labourers do? It seems to put people in mind of what’s not being done. Is the point to make the public think that the workers deserve more money? It seems designed rather to put people in mind of budgets, of all the money being spent on allowances and adjustments required by the strike and on the subsequent clean-up.
After the strike was done, things only got worse. Of course, not all neighbourhoods could be cleaned the minute the strike ended. In fact, many areas went another five days without pickup, even though the city mobilized extra workers. Garbage bags piled up higher. Some bags broke, and trash drifted across the roads and squares. This is our city as winter limps into its final weeks.
Sunday, February 19, 2023
This package was taking too long! Little Ren and I had picked out a pretty, red dress for her online. She had seen something on TV, I’m guessing, and so, suddenly, she had determined that she had an urgent need for a long dress. And so we did it; we ordered something online for her. Every day afterward, she asked whether the dress had arrived.
She decided the time had come for action. She picked out some paper and pens. She sat on the floor and began drawing capital letters in bold marker colours. It took her twenty minutes, but she painstakingly produced a colourful letter to the postman. “Postman,” she wrote, “please give me my dress.” She even folded a sheet of paper to make an envelope. She put the whole package together and pushed it into the mail slot in our front door. Later, I discreetly removed it. “The mailman must have picked it up,” I told her.
It’s a season of longing. February teases us with thaws and breaks in the clouds. The winds pick up and make us restless. I hear birdsong in the morning. Night is in retreat. We cycle to school in daylight. There’s some sun in the windows when I cook dinner.
The weather is changeable as a pinwheel. You can follow the path of blue patches of sky among the clouds, even as a barely perceptible mist falls on your face. You can warm yourself in a patch of sunlight, even as a wall of dark clouds approaches from the west. There’s something enjoyable about the capriciousness of it, after weeks of consolidated weather fronts: raining for days, then clear and cold for days. Nothing expresses the longing for spring better than the protean, seaside weather of February, blustery and shedding its fleeting light showers on us, while the seagulls wheel and cry overhead.
The day is coming. The cherry blossoms will open, and Little Ren will take her first spring promenade in a long red dress. The postman will deliver.
Tuesday, February 07, 2023
Baby Josie takes too much enjoyment in correcting her little sister. Now Little Ren is crying because she wanted to believe that the thin layer of white on the ground was snow. She has an affection for snow: she identifies as a winter baby. Winter is her season. During the rest of the year, she looks forward to seeing snow. This year we have not been fortunate. Even now, during our second cold snap of the season, we aren’t seeing any precipitation. Only this lowering fog, and the white condensation on cars and road and grass. There’s no snow, but only frost.
It's a word Baby takes up, as we set out on bikes, to her little sister’s increasing agitation. “It’s just frost, Ren.” They’re at an age when taunting each other is entertaining. Entertaining, and hurtful. Ren is heart-broken. “It’s just like snow, isn’t it?” I say, trying to lift her spirits. It’s just ice from the sky. Ren isn’t buying it.
“Look at the sky,” I say. This is a game we play often, while we cycle to school. At this time of year, we often catch pretty sunrises. Today, the fog is too thick. But instead of casting colours into an open sky, the sun is playing tricks with the fog. To the right, over the river, the light glows in a kind of archway among the fog. I’m not sure how that happens – the sun rises to our left, – but it’s a lovely sight. Little Ren is quiet now, riding complacently in the child’s seat behind me, watching the morning unfold. The frost is forgotten.
Later, after dropping the girls at school, I’m crossing the Erasmusbrug just as the fog is breaking. The sun sends long rays through the remains of the low clouds, reflecting off the high pillar of the bridge, racing across the road, and striking the waters of the wide river below.
Tuesday, January 24, 2023
I must understand this one thing. She won’t go to bed until she has explained it very well. She has realized the cause of the phenomenon she is calling her ‘wobbly gum’.
Little Ren stands before me in her pyjamas, which consist of a violet Minnie Mouse onesy, while I sit on the side of her little bed. The night is black outside our window. Winter is in full black-night swing, and all our memories from this season are dim interiors and grey middays.
Ren’s eyes are wide with serious intent. She demonstrates her point with her hands, which are held vertically with fingers together and straight, palms toward me. One hand points to the side, and the other, just below the first, points up.
You see? Here’s the new tooth. The gum is in the way. How can the new tooth come up if the gum is here. So she carefully turns her hand to indicate that the gum has made way for the tooth. She raises the tooth hand, and then the two hands are side by side, co-existing in peace. She shrugs to show how simple it all is, the mystery of our bodies. Everything will be fine.
This demonstration accomplished, she comes back to me, and she sits in my lap. The night is pressing in on the windows. We are alone, huddling in our circles of light and warmth while winter proceeds outside the windows, like a long migration of nocturnal herds. We must stay inside and out of their way.
Little Ren is still afraid to sleep alone. She has nightmares. Animals and monsters prowl in her sleep. In the middle of the night, she calls for us. She doesn’t want to be alone. For now, she is free to sit in my lap as long as she wants, chatting and swinging her legs, leaning her head into my chest, even falling asleep if she likes. My back is to the dark window, and no monsters are getting in.
Friday, January 20, 2023
On the contrary, my girls and I enjoy our commute to school. We take our time, and we talk. Baby Jos pedals forward on her little, pink bicycle. Little Ren rides behind me in the children’s seat. We ride together at Jos’s pace. Usually, we ride side by side, but sometimes Jos sings to herself, and she dawdles. When she slows down, I pull ahead and to the right, to give more space to passing cyclists.
For the Dutch, the bike paths are just another opportunity to hurry. Hurrying is a favourite pastime here. The most Dutch among them seem positively righteous in their rushing, loved and affirmed by a rushing God. For others, less exalted, the race is a contest of some sort, with themselves or with the clock or with the ghosts of their ancestors. Some pedal with anxiety, working out a pressing algebraic equation with their feet. The road could never be long enough for those. The common denominator is their solitude. Their eyes register no recognition of humanity among the race participants. People are pylons on the obstacle course. The only reason my little family draws attention is that we don’t conform to the usual rules of motion. We catch the eye as randomized elements on the course. Passer-by stare at us like creatures who have wandered into the wrong ecosystem.
But, for all that, we enjoy our time on the bike path. We are well used to the routine by now, venturing out into the cold and climbing up on the bikes. The girls play; they talk. As we pedal along, they sing or they chatter. They are in an expository phase now, compelled to explain or describe. They provide long taxonomies of their teachers, friends and classmates, naming them, describing them, and correcting each other. They lay out precise moralities of playground behaviour. They review agendas for me. They remind when their birthdays are. They count off the days until cherished activities are planned.
Baby Jos is the scientist. When I say, “Look at the pretty sky!” Baby Jos catalogues all the colours we see in the sunrise. She has lots of ideas. She explains the prototype of a phone she wants to build. It involves cans and a wire that will bounce signals off a satellite. That seems to sum up the leap in imagination we’ve made in the decades since I was a child.
Sunday, January 15, 2023
Winter has something to say, but who has the time for the small talk? It’s Sunday evening, and I am wiped out. I am more exhausted than I was on Friday. So far, I have completed exactly … one week (!) since school and the kids’ activities started up again. How will I make it to June?
The clouds are flying low, and every day sees some rain. It rained all day yesterday and when night set in, you could still see it billowing in the light of the streetlamps, clouds of white stipples in the sky.
The grey clouds hanging low, the gentle hiss of rain, the patient face of the waters in the canals and in the rivers, the longsuffering trees sleeping until spring, the whispering voice of Winter, they are inviting you to slow down, take some tea, think about nothing. But you have a schedule. You walk through your daily circuit with your head down, considering the damp pavements, the puddles, and the dim sky reflected in them. You feel your burdens acutely, weighted with the damp as they are.
There’s no season in which our lives of urgency seem more incongruous than during winter. Nature proceeds with a hushed voice, and we insist on noise. The quiet clouds and the soft hazes nudge us toward gentle behaviours, but ours are harsh. All of Nature’s obstacles should encourage less movement, and yet we insist on running the maze, proud that no season has privilege with us. We consult our data on productivity, while the wild is dozing.
If, in our excesses, we threaten the Earth’s natural balance, then mightn’t it be worthwhile listening? When the sky is grey with muffling clouds, we might lower our voices. When there is ice, we might stay home. When a light rain raps at the window, we might just meditate on the rhythm.
These are moods, it might be argued, and how are we to regulate our lives by moods? But the Earth might counter: what vanity drives you out of the house before dawn? If we robbed humanity of mood and emotion, mightn’t you just sleep for a few months and then look out the window of your high-rise cottage to watch the clouds and marvel at what you see? Is the fluorescent-lit office the haven of rationality? Doubtless we confound necessity with rationality there. Is it cool and rational to tumble forward every day through rain and snow to beat the clock? Is it necessity or reason? Is it fear? Is that the smell of intellect in the crowded Metro during rush hour?